For Easter, the four of us, Thomas, Hannah, Vivien and me, decided to hit the beach in Mozambique. Since we only had ten days, we decided to limit ourselves to two places:
Vilanculos and
Tofo, two of the most famous (and touristy) beaches in Mozambique. From Harare, it's quite a trip: 1.200km and the roads are not in perfect condition (though less bad than I expected).
We went with our car and Thomas did most of the driving (occasionally getting caught in the Mozambican police speed traps). We'd made it such that an inflatable mattress was in the back, mostly for Vivien, who was suffering from horrible back aches but nothing could hold her back (no pun intended).
Vilanculos is nice, quiet and dusty. It was fun to be again in a more latin feel, with people in the streets in the evenings and music playing everywhere. And of course, something especially my three co-travellers had been looking forward to, sea food!
It was such a relief to see the sea again, be at the ocean. Landlocked Harare and Zimbabwe have great things to offer, but after having lived so often by the sea, I do miss the openness and space by the seaside.
It was mostly a lazy holiday, nothing too active or exhausting. We spend time on the beach, working on our tan.
The challenge of building a sand castle,
an entire civilization to be swept away afterwards by the waves.
And lots of reading (5 books in ten days and not even trying)...
But what is especially an attraction for Vilanculos, is the nearby
Bazaruto archipelago. It is a group of six islands of the coast, some very touristy developed, with resorts and airstrips. It offers great clean and sandy beaches and snorkeling opportunities. Lots of little fish, fluorescent colors and so relaxing.
We however went there to also sleep.
Though not a 100% legal, the four of us with two guides spend the night under stars on a tiny island with nobody else (unless you count the scores of crabs around). Not that comfortable we had a perfect night's rest, but the view and the atmosphere made up for the crawling crabs over our legs and the sand getting everywhere.
Sea to the left, and sea to the right, so small was the island...
'Knibbel knabbel knuiland, wie knabbelt er aan ons eiland?'
In Tofo, the main attraction was the whale shark diving. We got into a boat with about twenty people and whenever the skipper would spot a shado under the surface, he yelled 'ready - GO!' and then we'd all jump in. Needless to say, we were among the first diving in, which gave us twice a great opportunity to see these massive beasts up close.
A whale shark is the biggest fish, up to 12 or 15 meters long. This spot is famous for a large population, 83% male though and juvenile. Seems like it is the hang out place for them, like a bar in a small town. Hugely impressive, and we were so close we could have touched them (which you can't since bacterias from our hand could cause infections). Then we'd snorkel alongside or above them, until the animal would get fed up with us (though we must have seemed like just small but possibly irritating insects to it). We were lucky to spot two, though unlucky to not see any manta rays, which are also very common there. Maybe next time...
Most of the time we were in bed by 9 or 10pm. Once the sun goes down at 6pm, and with us camping, or sleeping in dorms, we would get up quite early to avoid most of the heat so by 9pm we'd all be yawning. One night however we'd agreed we would go out. So here in Tofo, the happening place was supposed to be Dino's, a beach bar with cocktails and music. Only a 5 minute walk by the beach so after a couple of beers at our place, we headed down there. Not a bad place, and the cocktail list looked promising. I picked a strawberry daquiri (can't go wrong with that I thought) but others had the same idea and we wanted to be able to swap, so I ended up picking the Dino's orgasm. When we finally got them though, had a big toast ('knibbel knabbel knuisje...) and sipped, all our faces went like this:
The most foul and disgusting cocktail I ever had I think....
Of course, we might be on holiday, but with three capoeiristas travelling, it was also the opportunity to play around on the beach and have some photo moments. Capoeira on the beach is always great fun, and one evening we had the moon rising behind. That is, until Hannah inadvertently aued me and almost dislocated my jaw. A couple of days of avoiding too much hard food and chewing on one side and it all went back to normal again.
All in all, a very relaxing and beautiful holiday. After this one and the last Kenya coast trip, I'm ready for something a bit more active and exciting for our next holiday though. But how could I possibly complain?
