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Tuesday, December 15, 2015

2015: le Bilan

I'll always remember this year as the Earthquake Year. There was a Nepal before and a Nepal after. Combined with the unofficial blockade crippling Nepal during autumn after the new Nepal Constitution, it was not the easiest year, but it also brought us closer to a lot of people in Kathmandu.

Workwise, I felt like I reached cruising speed, despite certain meetings being postponed a couple of times. Thomas also became active again, with Photo Circle and organizing a photo festival. I also got back into theater which was great, with the Laramie Project.

In terms of travelling, we discovered Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Bali in Indonesia. I returned to Bulgaria, India, Singapore, but never made it to Bangladesh. I also discovered Hong Kong, and we closed off the year with Turkey and Finland. Due to the fuel crisis, we couldn’t explore Nepal as much as had planned and wanted to…

2015 saw a fair amount of guests and visitors. My entire family came to Nepal, as well as Valou and Corentin. We hosted some blasts from the past (Alexis, Liam, Allen and Orion) and added some new ones (Scott, Caroline, Martin).

In terms of resolutions for 2015:
1. Read a book a week: check
2. Learn how to make three cocktails: check
3. Get at tattoo: check (Africa footprint with Thomas’ toes)
4. Make monthly Ta-da list: hum, not really
5. Do yoga 4x a week: sort of
6. Visit Thailand: check
7. Make a fictional video: check (The Laramie Project)

Monday, November 30, 2015

November Tada-list

From time to time, it is nice to look back on the past and say a couple of things that you're proud of having done, instead of only planning ahead. Hence, the shift from To-do lists, to a Ta-da list!
For my month of November:

  • Having made it to Bali, Indonesia, country 86 (every new country automatically makes it into the ta-da list)
  • Selecting the pix and designing my 2015 photo album
  • Providing Valou and Corentin with a romantic getaway in Nepal for their second honeymoon
  • First experience in clothing optional resort in Bali
  • Started our movie nights again, with Pride shown yesterday
  • Finally started on one of my new years' resolutions: learn how to make three cocktails. Yesterday, tried out three with our guests, but not yet fully convinced. I want to make:
    • one that is easy to do in large quantities but still 'cool',
    • one original, requiring more expertise and fresh ingredients
    • one with Nepali alcohol (though you could basically substitute any hard liquor with aila)
  • Deferring a matter to a colleague of mine, while I felt something should be done otherwise. Glad I could stand back and let it run its course...

Saturday, November 21, 2015

The diviner and the goat

One of the examples I quote regularly to talk about western views on African beliefs and systems regards diviners. This is a prime example of what most westerners frown upon as superstition and blocking logical thinking, which in turn would infringe on development.

How can one reasonably impute a bad harvest or a roof collapsing on spirits or black magic, and justify the punishments inflicted on some? Take the example of a shepherd who has a goat that died. In he short version, he wants to find out the cause, goes to a diviner who tells him it’s the fault of his brother who is sleeping with a married woman. The brother gets punished and sacrifices have to be made to appease the ancestors. This seems to make no sense to a western mind, who would insist on scientific methods to be applied to find out why the goat died: did it eat a poisonous plant, is there a disease going round that should be prevented etc.

Spending several years in Africa, I felt the same way, though I wouldn’t have vocalized it much out of respect for local beliefs and culture. Until I met with an anthropologist who managed to explain some aspects to through glasses that did make sense to me, sadly, again through a form of science I can relate to.

He explained to me that in the traditional way of divining in South Africa, a lot more goes on. In the long version of the goat example, first of all, the shepherd doesn’t necessarily wonder WHY the goat died (all animals and humans die eventually), he mostly wonders why the goat died NOW. There is a difference in finding out the why (shepherd aren’t stupid, they know all about poisonous plants or cattle diseases, and I find it patronizing to assume otherwise), as to the why now, more linked to context and looking for the reasons behind events. Hence, if this question keeps bothering him, he will turn to a diviner (diviners are what we would refer to as white magic, in comparison to sorcerers, who would practice black magic, to inflict harm).

The anthropologist explained that there is a precise ritual to be observed for this visit: during the first hour, the shepherd will exchange gifts, drink and chat, without ever revealing the purpose behind his visit. Then, the diviner will cast bones (or any other method to consult the spirits), and then has to announce three things:

  • The purpose for the visit, the question s/he would like to get answered
  • What caused the event? This can be one of three things:
    1. The ancestors, who are upset about something (a breaking of traditions, lack of respect etc.) 
    2. The spirits: more random and can be appeased by offerings;
    3. Black magic: a spell or curse cast by someone (which can even be done unknowingly)
  • How to solve it? For the first two, this is relatively straight forward: by returning to upholding these traditions or sacrifices or offerings. Where it becomes more interesting, is the black magic. Here, the diviner also has to provide the reason why the third party had cast a curse.

Now, it is important at this point to highlight that the shepherd has to be convinced of the answers provided by the diviner. Traditionally, visitors frequently rejected the explanations and readings of the diviner and would continue to consult others, till they found a reading they could relate to. Hence, accepting an interpretation also involved elements of admission: maybe they felt they hadn’t been respecting traditions, or creating disharmony in the community. Hence, according to your beliefs, the diviner could have ‘magical’ insights or be very well connected to the villages grapevine to know potential frustrations or tensions.

If black magic was involved, usually, a punishment is pronounced, which can go from fasting, to a whipping to banishment from the village, very rarely death (banishment was considered a more extreme punishment then death).

Now, of course, abuses of these practices or the power of divination can and have happened. Modern forms of these practices have led to all kinds of horrendous situations, like children being killed or slavery. And most likely, sometimes ‘logical’ answers to problems can be overlooked by believing in these systems. But let’s also acknowledge some of the useful sides of these practices:
- In societies with no written law, police, judges or jails, any event can be used to deal with discord and anger in a community. No need to openly accuse somebody of theft or bring proof, another event can serve to bring suspicions to the table and solve them. And again yes, surely mistakes have happened, but can we honestly say the western system of justice is infallible?
- And while abuse of power is certainly possible, it also serves in a way to balance out powers, le pouvoir arrête le pouvoir. Nobody can become so rich or powerful in a village that they can’t be accused of black magic and brought down a notch. An unpopular chief causing tensions by his decisions, a richer employer not paying his people, infidelities, domestic violence can all come up. And recognizing the interpretation of the diviner in a sense constitute a form or acknowledgement of the tension.

Hence, while I’m not at all advocating that these practices should be defended or generalized, understanding them and what use they had in societies and communities I think is important to understand people and belief systems, and that alternatives to our cause-effect logical way of thinking exist and have some validity and are not complete nonsense. I had to have it explained to me (through an again western scientist point of view) before realizing this, and have often attempted to share it with others, to varying degrees of success. Hence, the thought of turning it into a post on my blog…

Sunday, October 4, 2015

Sweeping through Sri Lanka

Combining work with pleasure, Thomas and me spend a week in Sri Lanka, after a work related conference I attended. Though short for such a big island, it gave us a glimpse and enough to really approve of Sri Lanka!

We spend one day in Colombo, the capital, then went 3h south by train to Galle and Unawata, where we witnessed a beautiful sunset. The next day, with a rented car, we drove 8h by the south coast to the center of the island, Horton's plain, in Nuwara Eliya. After a night in a beautiful colonial mansion, we got up really early to hike in the nature park, and saw World's End and some waterfalls. From there, direction Kandy, with a stop at a tea plantation, to finally spend our last night in Negombo, a beach town just a couple of km north of Colombo, but closer to the airport.


Trip over, now back to Kathmandu, where hopefully the unofficial blockade of the Nepal-India border will have been lifted...

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Familie bezoek in Nepal

Een paar maanden geleden was er schijnbaar geen betere plek voor avontuurlijke reizigers dan Nepal. Nepal doet dromen: het dak van de wereld met de hoogste bergen, meditatie en spiritualiteit. Na de recente aardbevingen, met beelden in de media van de slachtoffers, verwoeste huizen en tempels, beschouwen veel reizigers deze droombestemming echter als een nachtmerrie. Nochtans is Nepal nog steeds de moeite waard, en misschien zelfs meer dan ooit.

Ik woon sinds een jaar in Kathmandu, als cooperant voor Wereldsolidariteit. Ik heb de twee aardbevingen hier in Nepal beleefd en nam zelf foto’s die mijn familie en vrienden op het internet of nieuws zagen, van ingestorte huizen en tempels. Dagenlang werden in België angstaanjagende beelden getoond van chaotische steden en verwoest dorpen, die de ernst van de aardbeving illustreerden: meer dan 8.500 slachtoffers, 100.000 gewonden en 800.000 huizen beschadigd of verwoest. Van vrienden en familie kreeg ik vele vragen die potentiele toeristen zich ook stellen: lopen ze in gevaar van meer en zwaardere aardbevingen?

Toen mijn familie en vrienden hoorde dat we naar Nepal vertrokken ondanks de aardbeving verklaarden ze mij voor zot, vooral met onze twee kinderen van vier en zes jaar.” Dominique, 38

Wil en kan Nepal toeristen ontvangen op dit moment? Wat is er nog te zien, gezien zo veel is ingestort? Als ik ga, gebruik ik dan niet eigenlijk middelen die de lokale bevolking harder nodig heeft? Allemaal relevante vragen, waar ik hier ga proberen een antwoord op te geven.

Zijn we nog in gevaar als we gaan? 
Hoewel niks 100% gegarandeerd is, loop je nu niet meer gevaar dan voor de aardbeving. Eventjes technisch worden: de aardbeving werd veroorzaakt door de langzaam opbouwende spanning tussen de Indiaanse en de Eurazische tektonische platen (die ook de Himalayas omhoog duwden). Daarom ook dat wordt gesproken van periodische aardbevingen: elke 80 jaar vond in deze regio een zware aardbeving plaats. Nu de spanning tussen die twee platen weg is, schatten er veel experten dat het nu veiliger is dan voordien. Intussen werd ook duidelijk welke gebouwen en hotels een aardbeving kunnen weerstaan. De overheid deed inspecties om te zien welke infrastructuur niet geleden heeft van de aardbeving en alle hotels die veilig werden verklaard kregen een groen certificaat. Eigenlijk heb je nu dus meer garanties dan vroeger.

Wil en kan Nepal toeristen ontvangen?
Toerisme is heel belangrijk voor Nepal. Jaarlijks ontvangt Nepal, het land met acht van de tien hoogste bergen in de wereld, bijna 800.000 toeristen, enerzijds avonturiers aangetrokken door treks of bergklimmen, anderzijds spirituele zoekers die zich terugtrekken in het boeddhisme of hindoeïsme. Deze sector is jaarlijks goed voor zo’n 400 miljoen EUR inkomsten, 500.000 rechtstreekse jobs (3,2% van alle jobs in Nepal) en vormt de grootste industrie in Nepal met 8% van het BNP. En hoeveel Belgen dragen daar toe bij? In 2014 waren er 5.437 Belgen die gemiddeld 20 dagen in Nepal verbleven . Na de aardbeving meldt de pers dat 90% van alle boekingen werden afgelast voor mei en juni 2015, met grote vraagtekens bij de herfstboekingen. Als Nepal uit de assen wil herrijzen, dan gaat het de toeristeninkomens zeker nodig hebben.

Meer dan ooit zijn de Nepalezen blij om toeristen te ontvangen. Nepalezen stonden al bekend voor hun gastvrijheid, maar nu kreeg mijn familie geregeld felicitaties en blije welkomsten van Nepalezen die hun tevredenheid deelden voor hun komst, ondanks de aardbeving. En zo kregen we vaak ook belangrijke kortingen of zelfs VIP behandeling…

Ik stond ervan te kijken dat alles nog te verkrijgen was van eten en water in de hotels waar we verbleven. De Nepalezen doen echt hun uiterste best om de weinige toeristen van alles te voorzien en zo goed mogelijk bij te staan.” Michèle, 61

Wat is er nog te zien na de aardbeving?
Natuurlijk toonde de internationale media enkel de chaos, de ingevallen huizen en tempels, wat de indruk geeft dat er niets meer rechtstaat. Dit is duidelijk een misvatting. Als je momenteel in Kathmandu rondrijdt kun je nauwelijks merken dat een aardbeving plaatsvond. Ik zou schatten dat 90% van de gebouwen nog steeds rechtstaan. In onze straat viel enkel een tuinmuurtje om. Wat betreft historische gebouwen en tempels, werden volgens de beoordeling van UNESCO sommige van de zeven erfgoed van de Kathmandu vallei getroffen , maar er is zeker nog genoeg te zien. De drie must-sees van Kathmandu (Boudhanath stupa, de Monkey tempel, Pashupatinath net zoals de backpakers wijk van Thamel) draaien volop en zijn nog steeds even indrukwekkend. Er wordt druk aan de restauratie gewerkt, wat soms unieke inzichten kan geven.

Het was zeker een reis die we voor de rest van ons leven gaan onthouden, met bergwandelingen, een vlucht rond de Everest en de indrukwekkende tempels en geschiedenis.” Philippe, 61

Wat draait er nog in Nepal?
•    Van de 75 districten werden slechts 8 zwaar getroffen
•    Van de tien nationale parken, slechts één.
•    Van de acht UNESCO World Heritage Sites hebben er slechts twee zware schade geleden
•    Van de 35 meest gebruikte trekking routes werden er maar twee getroffen

•    De twee luchthavens draaien goed, net zoals de basis infrastructuur (water, elektriciteit, banken, internet)

Maken mijn familie en vrienden zich niet ongerust?
Misschien wel, des te beter dat je dus tijdens je verblijf foto’s toont op Facebook en mail om anderen te tonen dat je het goed stelt. En zo kan je ook bijdragen aan de online campagne met hashtags #StillNepal en #Stillsmiling om anderen te tonen dat Nepal nog steeds toeristen verwelkomt.

In Italië was het eten wel lekker, maar Nepal is veel mooier en er is veel meer te doen. Ik heb hier voor het eerst de slurf van een olifant aangeraakt en ben er zelfs in een rivier mee gaan zwemmen. Mijn klasgenootjes gaan zo jaloers zijn!” Loïc, 6

Friday, May 15, 2015

Stories of Nepal

Let me also advertise a Facebook page I really enjoy and which often brings a smile to my face in these hard times: Stories of Nepal.

"The earthquake destroyed my house so I walked down to the market to buy a hammer and some nails to try and fix it. And I also bought this nice bag while I was at it."
(Jyurme Lama, Melamchi Bazaar, Sindhupalchok)
-----------------------------------------
You can help by donating to the Stories of Nepal Earthquake Relief Fund here.

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

DAY 18: Another quake

Another quake of 7.4 hit Nepal today... We're okay, so is our house, but dozens died and many more houses were destroyed... Sigh...

Though it looks like in Kathmandu, it will have limited damage, the effect was very strongly psychological. Where everybody had started hoping it was finished and winding down, we were suddenly thrown back. A lot of people were traumatized during the last quake and this brings it all back. I saw a little girl who insisted her parents carry her everywhere, she didn't trust the soil anymore. And who can blame her, if a big one could come now, why not in a week's time, or a month's time. Depressing thought.

Sunday, May 10, 2015

DAY 14 after the Quake

I haven't been too great the past two days. With my life slowly returning to normal and daily routines settling in again, it seems my body or mind is sort of showing the strain it was under during the past two weeks. I'd be very emotional and get tears in my eyes quite quickly, for no big reason. And yesterday, I had this painful feeling in my chest, like between my heart and stomach. Nothing major, but still...

I've been trying to take care of myself over the past days, taking it a bit easier, not going on new missions, going back to the gym, do my yoga in the morning, get some of the guests out of our house so I can get some of my space back. I also had this urge to redecorate our bedroom, which is where we were when the quake struck. I spend a lot of time putting in these little lamps, changing some curtains and just generally cocooning. I guess part of it is attempts to make this little nest of ours feel safe again.
List of aftershocks from
Earthquake Alert App

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Day 10 after the Quake

Life is seemingly returning to normal, while the extent of the damage is getting clearer. Kathmandu was relatively spared, despite the pessimistic warnings which saw most victims here, and it seems to be mostly rural Nepal that got hit. Many people have returned to their village.

Since Monday I also had to start working for my NGO, WSM, again, as internet was running again and work was piling up. I met with our two local partners, GEFONT and NTUC, who are organizing relief help to their members as well and both urgently welcomed any support from WSM. To my frustration, WSM requested additional information before being able to authorize any funds and I'm still awaiting news... Sigh...


On a more positive note, regarding the mission to Dhading our group organized: Jessica spoke to our team who travelled for 3 days to reach the final destination, including 2 days walking up steeply over landslides etc. to reach Ree Gauring VDC. They are now descending back down and we hope to have a full debrief in Kathmandu Thursday. I can't wait to hear their stories. But already, despite limited communications, they have been able to pass on vital GPS coordinates and details of the situation on the ground. All of which we have passed directly onto contacts at United Mission Nepal – the main NGO responsible for organising relief support to this area.
Our team have seen firsthand widespread devastation of homes, displacement of hundreds of local people into makeshift villages without proper cover, medical support or food with an example of a water source now half an hour’s walk away over a landslide. At least our medical supplies, tarps & food – carried by wonderful local porters – have made it through and the information gathered has been passed back to the organisations who are right now gearing up to provide relief via helicopter on a scale we cannot even begin to prepare. Good luck to them!
Stock waiting at Army base. Photo: Jessica Stanford
Wave 2: With the information gathered from our team on the ground, and speaking to United Mission Nepal on Monday afternoon, we realised that it would be a few more days before large scale relief could reach these areas. As a result we decided to quickly pulled together a wave 2. Special thanks to Frank of Precontec.com who through his connections arranged an Israeli military helicopter to support airlifting out badly injured people. The team in Kathmandu quickly arranged a substantial amount of food & supplies – rice, daal, powdered milk, sanitary pads and rehydration & diarrhoea medicine for adults & children etc – which were delivered to the BIR military hospital Monday night and delivered our support as well as more from larger organisations, which were flown out. It's amazing we could make this all happen, in such a short time, with everybody chipping in.

Though I'm having to take a step away from the volunteering, they are moving their focus to efforts to ‪#‎rebuildnepal‬, as the Nepal army and large NGOs kick into action on the relief front. A group has been started to look into techniques and ways of rebuilding more sustainable, quake proof houses, using simple and available materials. A couple of places are running workshops and demonstrations for volunteers and Shaun offered to demonstrated the dirt bag earth techniques at his house to villagers from the region.

We can also feel the media attention moving on. Less headlines, less calls from journalists. With great difficulties I drafted an article (in Dutch) for a media outlet in Belgium, MO*, which also inspired an article for En Marche (French). It is hard to know what to write. So much has appeared already, and I hardly recognize myself in anything. It always seems simplistic, or leaving too many things out that seem important to me, or too black and white, but drafting something myself made me realize how tough it is to share these things. Should I talk about the general situation, what I've seen myself, how that makes me feel, or give my opinion on what I think should be priorities? So hard to write anything I feel okay with, when you're submerged into it. Why do it then, you might wonder? Why spend precious time on writing anything that will be read (a bit anyway), by people in Belgium for away, who'll mostly glance over it and move on with their lives? Well, I suppose I see it as part of my role, to at least attempt to explain some of the realities I witness and experience here to people back home, to stimulate thinking globally, to use that cliche, to look beyond our own comfortable little world and borders. And it is also the opportunity to invite people to support us, the work we and our partners do here and which I strongly believe in, and that can make a real difference, in small and bigger things.

And for those who wonder, the updates to this blog are different, since I keep this blog mostly for people I have a personal connection with, so people who are interested can get an update on my life and how I'm doing. During these days, I received so many messages and questions from friends wondering how I was, without having the time to reply, it was easier to refer them to my blog, where I put efforts into drafting something each day. It doesn't have a huge following (around 200 views a day), but sometimes quality is more important than quantity, right? It's also nice to sort of have an online archive, diary, which I sometimes browse through, nostalgic and amazed at how much I've already forgotten. Though it seems hard to forget the last couple of days...

Friday, May 1, 2015

Day 7 after the quake

City is still stabilizing. More shops and now also restaurants are starting to reopen. You can find most anything again, like fruit and vegetables. Yogurt is bizarrely missing though. Still some shocks, but I hardly notice therm anymore.

We continue our volunteering with the Yellow House bunch, or, as they now call themselves The Himalayan Disaster Relief Volunteer Group. It helps to have a semi-official name when you're calling to ministries and other NGOs. The good news is the site they create to map reports and needs, is getting more and more attention, even in the NY Times. We are getting so many people at the 8am meeting (around 150 today), we're trying to reroute them to online register, to avoid having too many people cluttering the space. They put on signs with reported needs, resources that can be mobilized and it is up to the volunteers to organize themselves and plan missions, transport etc.

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Day 6 after the quake

Today was a bit more quiet. Apparently, there were still two shocks during the night, one at 3.55 of 4.2 and one at 6.22 of 4.5 but either I was too exhausted or they were felt so mildly, I slept right through them. Though everybody agrees the worst is over, it is still disturbing to know aftershocks are still happening.

We had less supplies to distribute today, so Shaun went to survey in seven villages, near his home, in the mountains surrounding Bhaktapur. The villages visited vary a lot. Some have almost all houses destroyed and have hardly any shelters, while others had some better-off families with concrete structures that are now accommodating the villagers and they have already started rebuilding the houses. A lot of it seems to depend on their capacities to organize and get access to building materials... It'll be important for them to get their houses in shape before the rainy season.
Thomas did data entry. He's still busy doing so at this hour, so it has been a very long day.

The good news is that the website our group started from the Yellow House, which tracks reports and needs,  got accepted as official website to be used by the Ministry of Health and Interior, and even Google has dropped their own map and linked to ours.


I went looking to buy a motorbike, since transport remains a main issue, not for distribution but to head out to the mountains, to know where the needs are greatest. Unfortunately, all shops were closed so I went around for supplies. Tomorrow will probably be a bigger day, as quite some supplies came in, which can be dispatched tomorrow.

A lot of information is coming in, some of it disturbing. Apparently, the Nepali government wants to centralize all relief assistance  (good thing), but hence be able to capture all transfers done for earthquake relief (not so good).

We've also finally heard from three of our friends which were trekking at Everest, who were at Base Camp just one day before the earthquake. Clearly we were very concerned about them, but we just heard they were hiking back...

Offering help: what to do

Who to give money to: I had hoped to avoid giving direct suggestions on this issue, for the choices aren't easy. And there are ideological makeups as well as past experiences to consider. But many of you asked and therefore I'm giving my personal opinion here. I would advise to spread your donations over these, as they cover different types of needs and approaches.
If you want to go large scale, many donate to Nepal Red Cross, UNICEF World Food Program, or Doctors without Borders (and others here).
Their agendas and operations are straightforward, and their ability to mobilize resources in Nepal is dependable. I want to give a special mention for Habitat for Humanity here.  

The government of Nepal also created a fund, under the Prime Minister, which is criticized by some, cause they're attempting to take the monopoly for all relief funds, but I still want to mention. Anyone wishing to make contributions can do so by making deposits to any of the Relief Fund bank accounts:
  • 00100105200270 and 00101102200012 at Everest Bank, 
  • 002-11-053313 at Nepal Bank Limited, 0411010000005 at Global Bank Limited, 
  • 18013243801 at Standard Chartered Bank and 035142 'C' at Nepal Bangladesh Bank limited
What I am personally involved with and can strongly endorse:
  • For my NGO, WSM, which will be supporting our local partners, you can support by this bank account  BE41-8900-1404-3510 mentioning “Nepal” (here in French and here in Dutch).  
  • One of them, trade union GEFONT, whom I really appreciate, here.
  • With a bunch of people from our neighborhood, we've been doing outreach and created a group: Himalayan Relief Disaster Volunteer Group  which does fundraising through here.
  • Closely related to this group and known personally to me, Clean Up Nepal Earthquake Fund here.
  • And then our current housemates, CouchSurfers who had done great things in Ghana and are currently launching a project in Nepal, led by Allen Gula, here.

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Day 5 after the Quake

Wednesday I went out with our volunteer group from the Yellow house to Kavre, out of Kathmandu, to distribute tarp, shovels, soap and other items that might be useful. The coordination is slowly getting organized, with a tremendous amount of people wanting to help, and everybody mobilizing networks and resources to gather stuff.

After a bumpy road, we visited a couple of rural communities in the mountains there. Some were affected more than others. The first village, of about 40 houses with maybe 200 people living there, had maybe half their houses partially or completely destroyed. Temporary make-do shelters had been built in place, cramming up to 17 people into one. Their main concern was how to stay dry with the rains that are frequently falling and stay warm. Luckily their drinking water was still available. Sanitation also remains a big problem, with water that can get contaminated, and livestock that starts to rot inside barns that collapsed.



As I had done some first aid training, I was put in charge of medical aid. Nobody was severely injured though and most of it was disinfecting cuts and bruises. It was greatly appreciated though and seemed to give people a feeling they were being taken care of, providing people with an opportunity to tell their stories and vent. Some of them insisted on showing their houses, the place they were when the quake hit, what happened to their personal belongs, asking we take pictures... Very sad...






Tensions rose a bit at dusk, when the last village started complaining about not receiving enough and argued with the assessments made. It just demonstrates how on the one hand you want to go quick, to help as many people as possible, to avoid having them sleep in the rain, and on the other hand, you want the stuff to go to people who need it the most.


On a personal note, some more people left from the house. There are less and less neighbors using our house to sleep over. Power is being loadshedded, and our inverter doesn't seem to be working properly. Still no internet, only through our phones. I did another interview, with Het Nieuwsblad, trying to highlight both my organisation, WSM, and our partners, GEFONT and NTUC, and how the solidarity is showing here and the most important thing.They didn't publish it however...

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Day 4: After the quake

Yesterday, during the entire day there were no tremors but during the evening around 7.30, we had another one, quite short but powerful. I didn't feel any shocks during the night, so hopefully we won't get more. Still no power though more neighborhoods are starting to get it. I was interviewed and broadcasted by Radio 1 and Klara in Belgium.

We go back to the meeting, which has grown exponentially. From focusing on one community, they are trying to coordinate with other similar groups of volunteers, a team is taking out tarp for people to sleep under, they are building a webpage to make an inventory of material and try to appeal volunteers (though others are popping up like here). A Facebook page had been created the day prior for potential volunteers, and got over 26.000 posts in one day, so it was impossible to manage.  
A team of their volunteers went out on mountain bikes to an area close to Bhaktapur, Ranikot, where Shaun is also building a house. They bring back many stories and information. Many houses that weren't made of concrete, collapsed. In places, an entire community of 50 or 80 houses has lost them all. Once it starts raining, they have no shelter, get wet, and sick. If they have injuries, there's infection. Diarrhea is starting to come up. Sometimes live stock was caught under the debris, and is now starting to rot, creating a risk for epidemics. Some of them are journalists documenting, or photographers (here). 
We also sign up to go out tomorrow and help set up tents and dig latrines in a neighborhood just outside of the ring road from Lalitpur. Shaun offers his help and is asked whether he would mind moving bodies at the hospital. Turns out they are bodies and need to be photographed, so they can be identified later...



Our neighborhood group are looking to fund raise (here) and link up with bigger relief organisations and the government. Everybody agrees they should take the lead (and probably the army is still doing the most currently), but everybody is equally skeptical about their capacities. One participant shares that they'd held a protest in front of a government building to demand the government be more active and they got forcible removed by the police. He had been dragged by his hair for 20 meters... 

International help should be arriving. Cluster meetings between IO and NGOs are taking place, the sky is buzzing with planes carrying in supplies. The arrival from the BFAST team from Belgium has been postponed two nights in a row, because so many planes are trying to enter with help. If you check Relief Web, it is buzzing with Countries donating and things arriving, but the only international airport can only accommodate so much.  



And best news of all, once we came back from the meeting, the power as back on in the house! Never been so glad to be able to cook with normal light, pump up water so we can flush toilets and take showers, and recharge everything that had been running dangerously low. We didn't feel any shocks during the day, so we're starting to breath more easily. The Dutch volunteers are starting to trickle out, two have left, two more will leave Wednesday. Also, the neighbors are dwindling, last night, there were only six coming. 

Monday, April 27, 2015

Day 3 after the Quake

Today is day 3 after the earthquake... Our last tremor was this morning, around 6 am. This was the longest stretch we had without tremors, and it gives us hope that it might be finished. Our biggest worry is that there would be an even bigger shock coming. Rumors abound, that experts have predicted the BIG ONE is still to come. Often, we hear more precise predictions, that in the next hour, there will be another quake. These usually don't happen. 
Currently we have a stock of water and food, but no power at the house. We have no WiFi but use the internet through our mobile phones. Not sure yet when electricity will come back, it seems it is already back in some neighborhoods.
This city however does not feel like it is in chaos. Most of the buildings in the city center that collapsed were old temples or old houses. The city still looks like a refugee camp because people are still worried that another big shock is coming, so they prefer to sleep outside. We are hosting about 20 people, the Dutch contingent, which is mostly looking for a way out of the country, and neighbors who sleep on the lawn or under the carport. 

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Day 1: The Qake

The three of us were in the master bedroom from our house, discussing color combinations for bed sheets when the earthquake hit. I heard some noise in the distance, a rumbling, everything started shaking and it took us a couple of seconds to realize. I first thought my blood pressure was low, or I was strangely drunk at 11.56 in the morning, but when it dawned on me, I shouted it out: “earthquake” but didn’t know what to do. Do you run, do you hide? Shaun, our visiting Australian friend who had been providing us with his opinion on color schemes, had better reflexes: he ran for the doorpost and stood under it. I belatedly remembered that was indeed the advised thing to do, as it is supposed to be reinforced, and so you’re less likely getting the ceiling on you. We squeezed in the doorway with the three of us, holding on to the sides. It kept going on, seconds seemed like an eternity. I heard crashing from downstairs and shouted to Scott, our intern downstairs, that it was an earthquake. Shouts and screams could be heard from the neighbors. It was very weird, the house wasn't bulging or cracking, it just seemed as if it as getting lifted up and put back down, or shaken from side to side.

Thursday, April 16, 2015

Tailing it to Thailand

Initially planned to get a break after the annual reporting and our big partners meeting, Thomas and I had scheduled one of my new year resolutions during the Easter holiday: visiting Thailand. It helped that it was also the dates for the Thai New Year celebration (Songkrun, basically a big water fight in the streets of Bangkok)  and that it would allow us to meet up with Silvija and Eliza, who were coming over from Myanmar. It didn't help the annual reporting still wasn't finished and the partners meeting got postponed till May, but hell, once the tickets are booked, not much else you can do but enjoy, right?

And enjoy it we did! After just a first lay over in Bangkok, we went to Koh Tao, an island south of Bangkok, where I finished of the report and Thomas initially wanted to get certification as a PADI Open Water diver, but time turned out to be too short, so we just explored the island on hired motorbikes and snorkeled tons... After four nights, back to Bangkok, where new year celebrations were starting, and we got splashed a lot. We also visited some temples and palaces. and started looking for silk and some other stuff we wanted to buy. Silvija and Eliza arrived and after a memorable first night, we were off by bus and boat to Koh Samed, 3 hours east of Bangkok.

It's definitely been a very nice break, and it made us realize how much we miss sun, beaches and the sea in our landlocked Nepal. But all things considered, it really isn't very far to come for a holiday...

Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Mom's visit with Therese to Nepal

In March, my mom came for a little less than three weeks, with Therese. We spend some days in Kathmandu, then visited Bhaktapur and went to the mountains in Mano Buddha, staying at a resort with wonderful organic food but unfortunately no snowy peaks in the view because of the clouds. Visited the local monastery but decided against staying there. We again tried our luck at Nagarkot but the view remained obscure, but we made some beautiful walks. On the way back, we stopped to see three friends of ours building a house in Narikot.

After again a couple of days to recover in Kathmandu, we drove to Chitwan, a national park in the south with rhinos and elephants, and where you can also walk freely.

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

The Laramie Project - Kathmandu

Theater gripped me in its paws once again... After going to see the premiere, I met with the producer, Deborah, and she told me they zere short on people and asked me to join in some minor scenes. It became two quite intense weeks of performances, new encounters, palm readings, pictures and video taking, stress throughout a beautiful, though sad story...



This docudrama performed by One World Theater in Kathmandu in March 2015 tells the true story of Mathew Shepard, a young gay man, who on October 7, 1998 was savagely beaten and left to die on a fence in Laramie, Wyoming. A month after the crime, members of the Tectonic Theater Project traveled from New York City to Laramie and, in six trips over a year and a half, conducted over 200 interviews with local residents. These interviews and other found texts, including the actors’ own journal entries, became the enacted script. Considered a “hate crime,” the event galvanized the American public and this small Western community and raised important questions about tolerance and how we raise our children.



The Laramie Project is one of the most produced and widely acclaimed plays across the American Theater circuit. And now it came to the Nepali Theater scene, produced by One World Theater and jointly directed by Deborah Merola and Divya Dev, starring celebrated Nepali Theater artists like Rajkumar Pudasaini, Divya Dev, Shanti Giri, Sulakchyan Bharati etc. It played at the Theater Village, Lazimpat, Kathmandu in March 2015.